How "NOT" to build an i550 guide

[slowpoke]

When in doubt, laquer thinner, acetone, or some form of paint stripper?

[Chad]

I had a botched batch when I was taping frames. It took acetone, putty knives, and scrapers to get the tape free. Toxic mess, scraped knuckles, and a generally fun two hours.

Has the epoxy seen any temps over 50-60F since you put it on? -if not it may just be uncured.

If it's an off-mix batch, and just coating (not glass or tape), I'd say a paint scraper would be the tool to use. Maybe finish up with a coarse scotch-brite and acetone. Then a thorough alcohol wipe down, 80 grit sanding, and go from there.

[admin]

I was thinking the same thing about the temps.

In other NOT TO DO NEWS:

If you want to fill those little dings before you paint, just use the end of a black stick or something small to dab in the fairing material. DO NOT just cavalierly brush on a mixture of 2-part epoxy paint and microballoons, unless you have nothing better to do than spend the better part of a weekend sanding. I'm finally back to what was once a very smooooth boat. On the other hand, the boat is certainly more fair than it was prior to this episode...but there is a lot of the previously named "expensive paint" back on the ground instead of on the boat.

Pix and it happened:

IMG_1593.JPG

[Chad]

"Dust on the workshop floor is fast"

-you just gained a hundredth!
Repeat 10x and it's a tenth, and most racers would give half their (crew's) clock weights for a free tenth!
Advice written herein worth *significantly* less than price paid...

[Tim Ford]

the worst thing about my "floor" is the perma-frost is beginning to melt!

another NOT: when hand-sanding small areas, for example, the fine curve between the hull and the sprit receiver tube, be careful to take precautions so as not to sand the fingernail on your thumb back to the point where blood begins to ooze out. If that happens, figure on not doing much with your thumb the next day.

[Tim Ford]

another WHATNOT:

When using a 2-part paint, switch out the roller halfway through the job. Waiting too long will cause the (high-density foam) roller to start to disintegrate therefore ruining a perfectly good application of expensive 2-part poylurethane paint such as Interlux Perfection.

Don't ask me how I found out.....

[Kevin]

Another "not" on the painting front is reusing any tipping paint brush. I bought a really nice brush and used thinner to clean it and everything. My second code was totally messed up by that brush.

[ryderp]

Don't let this happen to you:

Shavedkeel.jpg

My keel worked perfectly last Fall when I first launched the boat. However, this Spring I decided to "strengthen the keelbox" by pouring expanding polyurethane foam between the keel sleeve and the keelbox. Unfortunately the foam compressed the sleeve against the keel and I was unable to get the keel down more than half way when I tried to launch the other day. The picture shows the keel after I took an electric planer and sander to it. Hopefully I'll be able to get it out after we hoist the boat. Then I have a ton of work to do before I re-launch the boat with a thinner keel.

The lesson is; don't mess with things that are working, and if you do, think long and hard about possible complications. In this case, a ten minute "enhancement" is turning into a many hour re-do.

[Chad]

Ugh!
It was great to see your awesome wood cabined boat, really bummed we couldn't see it sail. Looks like you've got the bit in the teeth now, she'll be right soon!
Hopefully we can schedule something again in the fall, and twist some more arms to come out as well.

[Kevin]

I'll second that. Ugh! Looking forward to seeing your boat again soon, and sailing next time. Kevin.

[ryderp]

One step backward, one step forward:

keelbackinboat.jpg

The keel is a little narrower now, and the keel sleeve is a little wider. After a lot of work, I can raise and lower the keel without breaking out the electric planer.

[micah202]

...did similar recently when I put that foam in a hollow rudder--somehow it became too big for the cassette
----------------I guess that's why they call it -expanding- foam....yeh-UGH!!

............................glad you're sailing now!!!

[Kevin]

Looks great Phil. Glad you got it all back together and are in the hunt again.

Drat to all expanding foam.

In a similar self inflicted wound vain, I broke a spreader while lifting the boat on a hoist. We were at an angle to the arm and watching the boat too carefully and not looking up. I saw it when it was too late and it popped. A little carbon repair work and we were good to go again, but it was a high stress time in the moment. Just got some clear coat on it yesterday.

[M&S]

Expanding foam is a great idea. But....
Working in one of the Santa Cruz shops years ago, the 4 to 1 foam mix got reversed for a rudder mold. The two 1" relief holes were not adequate for the expansion and it broke the mold and melted part of it. But the gooey foam geyser left a stalagtite on the 20 foot ceiling for years.

[Tim Ford]

Now that I know: do not waste a lot of time fairing areas that will eventually get covered by non-skid (like KiwiGrip). The non-skid hides a LOT of ugliness. Get the deck even and not lumpy but it don't have to be perfeck! Slap the non-skid on it and go have a beer instead.

Or 3.

[slowpoke]

Amen to that!