i550class.org

Does anyone have a digital copy of the sail plan / deck layout. I am trying to finalize sails for my boat and need more info.
Thanks,
Mark

Info needed:

I would need to get a copy of the sail plan/deck layout so that we can
make sure we hit the tracks for the jib and also where the spinnaker
blocks are. If you have it in a digital format we can actually import it
straight into our design software, so that would be handy.

Josh posted pictures of his deck layout on shazza's blog a while back. The closest thing to a sailplan would probably be the picture at the back of the plans set.

how about a vector pdf of this drawing?

http://www.i550class.org/forums/viewtop ... =270#p3865

Thanks Chad,
Do you or anyone have these in a DWG file?

I'll export them to dwg in the morning.

Edit:



(copyright note: these are created from the pdf's posted above, not from my cad model which would include the 3d info for the boat, which I am careful not to disclose indiscriminately)

Speaking of deck-layout stuff, we are going with spectra loops thru low-friction thru-deck bushings, to attach most of the hardware. Here is a diagram. My biggest concern is: how to keep water from getting below. The question is what kind of glop we use to seal the opening where the spectra passes through the bushing. Two of the options are:



- Life-Caulk

or

- West G-Flex.

I'm thinking maybe give the G-flex a go. Any thoughts?

My only experiance is with lifecaulk, I found it to be suitably messy and hard to clean up¡

...but the "flex" in GFlex isn't gonna happen with string either. I'd just inject plain ol epoxy in the holes. Wrap masking take around them, 1/8" above the deck surface. I have a couple of these to do soon, also.

>>Wrap masking take around them, 1/8" above the deck surface

Not sure what you mean here....do you mean wrap tape around the spectra loops 1/8" above deck surf?

yeah, as you apply/inject the epoxy or other goo. It just keeps things neater; as you wipe off the excess it doesn't smear all over the rest of the loop and make it stiff (or ugly). When the goo dries, just unwrap the tape.

This is close to what it looks like when done:

(These were potted in epoxy holes instead of knotted below deck, but they look the same on top)

Wow, what is that, half a cat? Pretty!

Tim Ford wrote:half a cat?

or a third of a tri?? maybe some i550 training wheels?

(no, it's the aft end of one of the CLC kayaks a handful of guys from church put together last winter in my shop.)

Does anyone remember what the optimum JIB sheeting angle is on these puppies? I am thinking 18 degrees.

In other words, sighting aft from the stem down the centerline, two lines drawn, port and starboard, both 18 degrees off the centerline, would be the optimum angle for placement of the jib lead (alongside the coachroof on my boat).

Does 18 sound about right?

18 degrees sounds awfully wide .... Last time I installed tracks for a blade on a small PHRF boat the sailmaker suggested 12 as a starting point. My Soling is often inside that .... although the Soling is a different kettle of fish than any sport-boat, with a tall, skinny, high-twist self-tacker.

Yep, tracks tight to the cabin gets you 11-12 degrees, depending on exact cabin shape. I think you want them as tight as your cabin allows.

Chad wrote:Yep, tracks tight to the cabin gets you 11-12 degrees, depending on exact cabin shape. I think you want them as tight as your cabin allows.

Spot on Chad,,, Tracks tight to the cabin, I have been working with Doyle/Boston to design my jib to use in-haulers.

I have an in-hauler which is also called the weather sheet. If I snug it up a bit, I can pull the jib in nice and tight.

thanks for the info, people. As an aside, I got a box yesterday from Defender. It wasn't Defender's fault, probably UPS's, but the box was supposed to contain 2 Ronstan t-track cars and a length of T-track. It contained the T-track, but just one car....box had a huge gash it in, I guess the other car fell out somewhere.

Every freakin' time I order somehting from out of state, the box is damaged. This could be:

- criminal types at UPS rummaging through packages
- Homeland Security checking boxes for explosives
- general mishandling by the shipper

I suspect it is the 2nd one, but I am more paranoid than most. But I did live in the middle east for awhile, had an Iranian loft-mate during the hostage crisis and regularly communicate with folks I know in the Levant.

My question is: does anyone else get ttheir shit rummaged through when ordering boat-building supplies? This crap is getting old.

Maybe I should start a "Screwing With Our Packages Anarchy" thread?

Strange. Since moving far far from anything boating related, I've had to order everything that can't come from a big box store or Ace Hardware. I've had just about perfect luck with my shipments arriving intact. Occasionally snow delayed, but intact. Maybe it's the painfully nice people that live around here...

Same here. I bought a good percentage of my boat stuff on-line, and everything showed up, pretty much on time too.

Phil

I have had really exceptional service here in land locked Colorado, EVERYTHING had to be delivered.

There you go, it must be homeland security ! Just remember, if you don't have anything to hide, you shouldn't mind a little pilfering in the name of anti-terrorism ! !!

Always had good experience with Jamestown Distributer in Bristol RI
noemar