i550class.org

Having to start all over again. Purchase and obtain all necessary material for the second time to construct the keel strut and bulb and eventually for the rudder. Delaying my launch to next year. Using the well world traveled beaver tail i550 bulb.

It is indeed well traveled, and your photo brings back memories. Thanks go to Chad for designing and hand-crafting this beauty, and then sharing it with all of us.

Phil

Yep, that beast has been around the world, literally. Ebbe Larsen has been extremely generous in providing shipping costs for the bulb plug's epic circumnavigation. (once again demonstrating the strength of the i550 community, in spite of our fractious prior years early on....)

After many attempts to have my order filled, I have had to spend more and make the needed items.
The keel bulb will be a one piece lead bulb and will be done the way poozletrap did on his blog.

Have the upper half of mold done. Placed plastic between molds to be able to separate the two pieces.
Next to let molds dry out and next weekend, separate the two, touch up gaps left to prevent the lead get in the gaps and leave to dry out for the next couple of weeks. May use a heater to dry out the molds.
So far no luck in getting scrap lead, will keep on trucking.
Bought the cedar and will purchase 1/2 inch S.S. threaded rod to secure lead bulb to strut and lifting the keel.

Took the two molds apart and a few spots to repair or just touch up. Then let them harden for a few weeks or more and start looking for lead and the needed heating tools to melt the lead. Also obtain the lumber and 1/2 inch S.S. threaded rod and make the strut.

Marino, I used a propane turkey frier for the base heat, and also a plumber's torch over the top to get the best results. Wrought iron frying pan, a big one, works well as it retains heat much better than steel pots and pans. We cranked up the frier and when the lead started to melt, attacked it vigorously with the hand-held torch.

Works like a charm. Good luck!

there is excellent information in a section titled " Casting the Bulb" page three for additional help and advice.

Purchased the cedar, 1/2 inch S.S.threaded rod and started the pieces for the keel strut. Need to wait for warmer weather to mix the epoxy and lay the carbon fiber cloth. Right I am doing what I can get ready for warmer weather outside.
Next to buy the needed items for the rudder.

Because of all the holes in the viper mast, after removing the inner tube. I have become skeptical of having a problem with the mast having to many holes in it.
Looked into purchasing a new DM4 mast and DM5 boom setup. I was originally going to purchase from Geoff Martin. The cost from Dwyer is $1782.00US. The price includes masthead, seat, end cap, spreader brkt's and spreaders.
In Canadian dollars it becomes $2394.00. That does not include shipping and taxes. It would have been easier decision to make if all my money was returned back to me.
Don 't know what to do?
Keep the viper mast and use it or not?

Marino, it is not a question of how many holes, but where they are.

I seem to recall that the Viper sleeve was riveted in, with the rivets in a line down the (front of?) the mast. If it is a straight line it's OK. The big problem lies with holes that circle the mast at one height, or holes that are concentrated in one area. That is why halyard sheeve boxes generally have just two fastenings, one above the cut-out and one below. Stresses 'flow' around the big hole and don't even see the fastening holes. If the sheeve box fastenings were beside the sheeve box they would make the hole for the sheeve box effectively bigger, and weaken the mast more than the sheeve box does. Typically, the various sheeve boxes (jib, spinnaker and pole topping lift for symetric chutes) are carefully aligned on one axis to reduce loss of mast stiffness.

If you look at an old, aluminum Finn mast you will see that the luff track is riveted on with a long straight row of rivets. Similarly, spinnaker pole ring tracks are generally riveted to the front of big boat masts with a single straight row of rivets without problems.

I have broken an OK mast because there was a ring of fastenings around the mast, but never broken a mast because of a vertical line of rivet holes. I broke another because a spreader fitting failed and a third because a shroud clevis pin came out.

Thanks Warren for the advice. Will check my viper mast over again and see where the holes are. Then decide what to do.

Purchased deck, mast and boom components from FOGH MARINE a local reputable dealer for boating material. Will place and drill the necessary holes for them. Then enlarge the holes and fill holes with epoxy. Using gorilla tape to prevent the epoxy from falling through. Having two friends come over to get a feel as to where to place components for easy of handling lines.
Then sand, prime and fill for three times over.

I totally agree with Warren on the mast question.
If it was a freestanding rig, no shrouds, then I might consider holes on the front, tension edge of the mast a problem,, or on the lower side of boom.
A stayed mast? No problemo.

Btw,, you did a beautiful job extracting the sleeve on the mast.

Thanks micah, it was a tight fit for the inner tube. Poured alot of oil through the holes, as the inner tube was pulled out.

Marino wrote:Thanks micah, it was a tight fit for the inner tube. Poured alot of oil through the holes, as the inner tube was pulled out.

Yah, I remember reading of that. Very impressive work.

Sorry to hear of your recent setback, goodonya for keeping at it!

Well, placed and drilled over sized holes for the deck hardware. The hardware was positioned to what I have seen on other boats and where they best should be placed.
Put on the first coat of primer. Added to much thinnr( oh well). I got to see how my fairing job and sanding looked.
Now to sand and redo the bad spots and put the next coat of primer on.

Rolled on the 3rd coat of primer. Will sand with 220 grid sandpaper. Then placed deck hardware on and outline with pencil, mark where holes are. Drill through with a 1/8" drill bit. This way I know where to drill proper size holes. Tape off areas where finishing paint will be rolled on( 2 or mor layers). Then re-tape and place kiwi grip on.

Placed the hardware where it felt right and i was able to handle the lines. I outlined with "frog" making tape the area to be painted with Epifanes two-part paint "cool white". Did three coats and sanded between coats with 320 grid sandpaper. Tried to keep the roller full and not go over the same area over again to prevent spots to occur.
Let the paint cure and harden for a few days, before using the masking tape to outline the areas for the Kiwi Grip.

Placing of hardware.

3rd coat of paint.

Marino,

Looks like you are doing a skiff-style mainsheet with an aft bridle?

Warren , that's right. I didn't see the need for a traveller system. I had a skiff style system on my 14' 6" scow that I had built and liked it's simplisty. Also the cost right now for a traveller system was to high right now. Had to deal with what I have now, after losing out to Velocity Boatworks. Maybe in the future I will try to install it.

Marino, yes the skiff system is effective both performance and cost-wise. I might have done that too (my Soling had a traveller but it was behind the helmsman with the mainsheet tail led forward along the boom (effectively like a 'rich skiff, and it was good'), but I gave some Harken blocks to to the Laser 28 that I crew on and in return was given a used Harken traveller and centre-sheeting car. Would never have bought that, but I was most pleased to receive it.

Placed "Frog" masking tape on to outline areas for rolling on "KiwiGrip" coating both on the deck and cockpit. Sanded the necessary areas with 150 grid and watched a few video's on YouTube on applying KiwiGrip.