i550class.org

Went to Sutton Ontario and drove my new trailer and trailer components home.
Had brackets welded on for three bunk supports.
The basket for the bulb is over the axle. Very pleased with the work done and the service given.

The motor mount services two purposes; support of motor and support of the mast post.

The mast supports and attachments to trailer.

Boat hitch.

To Warren, I thank you for the GREAT IDEA in reducing the trailer length. Enabling someone to place their trailer in a shorter garage space.

some great ideas there especially the hinge for making the trailer shorter!! Will have to keep these in mind for my build

Picked up part of my order today from FOGH MARINE Will set up the articulater to be controlled from either side of the boat, when pleasure sailing. The PRO START will be used on two boats, my i550 and a C&C 34 for the crew to view when adjusting the sails.

Brought the two cement moulds to Stephen(kiwi22) on my trailer. Sorry no photos were taken. Because there are to many children living near our home, I asked Stephen for his help. Drove to Orangeville and that's where the lead will be poured. Will take photos and post them.

This is a link to my built. Hope this works. I reduced the number of photos for the link and will add others as the boat is finished.


Link: Http://photos.app.goo.gl/M2m7Afvf2f8p35nz5

That works! Great job, Marino.

I would love to trailer my boat up NE next (pandemic free) summer and casually race against you and Warren!

Tim, don't forget Stephen's (Kiwi22)boat is almost ready also. I will be seeing him in July sometime for the lead pouring. Nick who lives near Sarnia, Ontario has started his built. The very early stage of building.

Well, I filled another hole in the puzzle. Had a rep from NORTH SAILS come over. Took several measurements and took a few pictures. The meeting went really good. Pleased that I decide to go with NORTH SAILS.
Main and Jib will be made using a NORTH material called NPL and the asymmetric spinnaker will be made using AIRX material.
Pictures to be added to the link, when sails are made.

Marino,

We were using my standard asymmetric for the first time Monday. It is a North A3 in Airx. Nice sail.

Pouring the lead this weekend. Before the mold was cracked open or lifted off, how much time was needed for the lead bulb to cool off?

I went back to my photos to check, and found the dates were one day apart. So I guess my answer is “let her cool overnight”

The next morning,

Thanks for the advice.

Posted a picture in my link of the 350 pounds of lead for both my boat PURSUE and HOOLIGAN. Now to set up a time slot with Stephen (Kiwi22) to pour the lead. Needed to drive to a boat scrap yard, just north of a town called Cobourg.

Posted two photo's of both the trailer bunks and the setup we used to melt the lead in the link.
Marine Cradle Shop felt the brackets should be spaced for a 50 mm board.
So, I made the bunks out of 19 mm plywood epoxied together. Filled the gap just right. The wood that the boat rests on is 6mm marine plywood, cut 127 mm wide.
Tomorrow the cement gets cracked open and we get to see how the bulb turned out.

Picked up the lead bulb today. Pictures to be placed in the link at a later date.
It went better then Stephen and I expected. It dropped out of the cement moulding, when the cradle was placed on its side. Used high temperature caulking and placed a bead around bulb shape on both cement moulds to have a good seal between the two halfs and prevent the lead from spreading into the cement.

Picture of trailer hull supports and keel bulb.

Marino, if the trailer tongue jack/wheel is a bolt-on would it be better positioned on the left side of the main trailer rail, right forward? When the boat is on the trailer, swinging the tongue with the trailer jack under load will be tough .... aligning the hitch pin in the tongue hinge will be no joy either, My tongue jack is on the right side of the main frame, which limits the tongue swing, so I would recommend left (but in my case, that is where I put my VIN tag. Oops.)

I was worried about interference between the jack and the hull but there is no problem.

Well the building of PURSUE 307 is slowly come to an end. Because of the pandemic I decide to take the boat out of the garage in the spring. Would need roughly eight friends to lift and place it on the trailer. They would all be standing close to each other. I do not want anyone to catch the virus.Three things left to do; lines, shrouds (to be done by FOGH MARINE)and keel. Have added a few more photo's unto my link.

Marino, there is a way ...

Jack the stern up and block it there. Then borrow a come along or a chain hoist, stick a pipe in the prod receiver and then lift the bow up from the rafters. Pull out the cradle and roll the trailer in. It is more or less how I did it although I used my hydraulic engine hoist rather than a chain hoist.

Warren is absolutely correct. I got mine on with one other guy (although he is an ingenious little bastard). We used cinder blocks, 2x4s as levers, and round logs cut to stove size to roll the boat on. One person, with the prod extended, or a piece of pipe in the prod receiver tube, can easily lift the bow off the ground. If you like, insert a scissors jack under the bow (use a towel or something soft on top the lifting part of the jack). Back the trailer under the bow and 9/10ths of the work is done. Just use the back end of your bunks as a lever point. One guy on the winch, one guy on each side of the stern with a strap under the boat to lift it, and you should easily be able to work the boat forward on the trailer (assuming the tops of your bunks are pretty slippery). I think I have photos somewhere of how we did it. One thing though, my bunks are a bit lower than yours.