Watershed building notes and tips
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 8:58 pmCutting the stem Timber
the main idea is safety.
The part is not big enough to hold safely if you are using a skill type saw. to make the piece manageable attach it to a larger board by drilling two 1/8”holes through it from front to back on the centerline. use two 2” screws and fasten it to a 1x6 of about the same length. Clamp it to a bench or otherwise secure it. Set the bevel at about 23 degrees and the blade depth deep enough to cut the workpiece, but not through the 1 x6. Use both hands on the saw. Cut carefully to the lines. The screws will hold the workpiece to the 1 x 6 and keep the operation safe.
Next trim the piece to the line with a sander or belt sander or hand plane if you use one. The stem / hull side cheek angle changes a little bit from bottom to top. A little bit of a twist is a good way to view it . However we are using the epoxy to glue it with and if it is a bit rough do not trouble too much , the epoxy will fill the gaps and be plenty strong.
Tim Reiter
Posts: 1003
the main idea is safety.
The part is not big enough to hold safely if you are using a skill type saw. to make the piece manageable attach it to a larger board by drilling two 1/8”holes through it from front to back on the centerline. use two 2” screws and fasten it to a 1x6 of about the same length. Clamp it to a bench or otherwise secure it. Set the bevel at about 23 degrees and the blade depth deep enough to cut the workpiece, but not through the 1 x6. Use both hands on the saw. Cut carefully to the lines. The screws will hold the workpiece to the 1 x 6 and keep the operation safe.
Next trim the piece to the line with a sander or belt sander or hand plane if you use one. The stem / hull side cheek angle changes a little bit from bottom to top. A little bit of a twist is a good way to view it . However we are using the epoxy to glue it with and if it is a bit rough do not trouble too much , the epoxy will fill the gaps and be plenty strong.
Tim Reiter
Posts: 1003