i550class.org

Has anyone made up a list of rigging hardware and posted it? I'm curious what size blocks for the boom vang, etc. people are using. BUT I really need a list of the items I need to aquire, and I'd prefer several lists, so we can discuss the merits of each.
Thanks,

Rocky, I will look for the list of rigging that was put together and offered through watershed a long time back. There were things I did not use and others I needed more of. One of the options you will have decide on is your main sheet, traveler or bridle. More pieces in the traveler set up.

Thanks Jon, it'll save me from re-inventing the wheel. Once we get some lists posted, we can see what's really needed for the different setups.

Big_Dog had the parts lists from '07 and was kind enough to email them to me so I don't have to type everything. Thanks Jon!! There were several .xls files but neither Jon or I know how to upload them to the forum. I would be happy to send them on to anyone who knows how to load them. They look like spreadsheet format. Rocky I will e-mail everything to you. Remember the prices are way old.

One thing to keep in mind is that the i550 is not a huge boat and that you are really sizing blocks for the line you want to use more than the loads they need to handle. Example would be spin blocks. If you want a 8mm spin sheet for "hand" then you need either a 40mm harken carbo block or a 50mm ronstan orbit block. A 40mm ronstan will take the load but good luck getting the line through the blocks and if you do it's chafe city (imho).

I also recommend making sketches of each system so you can ensure that you end up with fair leads and enough adjustment range on each line. That 8:1 cascade you saw on a picture on SA looks really cool and saves you a block but is crap when you go to adjust it and it 2 blocks on you. What works for others may not work for you is all I'm saying.

More later (I hope). Kevin.

Thanks Jon for getting the hardware list posted. The spreadsheet I did last year has the same Harken parts with updated prices. I was surprised that the total increase $20 over the four years. Kevin is right that each boat will be set to meet the needs and taste of a builder. I'm going with a stern bridle and recently purchased a Harken 402 Swivel Base with Double Cam. Others have gone with a traveler. It will be interesting to hear how others are rigging their boats.

Jon

Any comments on this:http://www.apsltd.com/c-7198-as-90-samson.aspx
for shrouds and the forestay?

ryderp wrote:Any comments on this:http://www.apsltd.com/c-7198-as-90-samson.aspx
for shrouds and the forestay?

From the "Spreaders" thread, here some info:

Chad wrote:

Kevin wrote:Oh, and Chad, what was that source for smaller diameter "dynex-dux" like line? I may need some to complete my spring rigging change tasks.
k.

The best I found was Marlow's D12 Max78, which is a heat set prestretched dyneema sk78. Dux is heat set prestretched sk75.

The D12 is available from Bainbridge. I've got their rep's info on another 'puter, if you want to pursue it.

I started a thread on SA last year that yielded some good info, I'll dig up the link if I can. There's some other similar line out there, but it's very hard to get in small boat diameters and quantities.

Here's the link:
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index. ... &p=2961446

SK-90 has similar properties to SK-75, except it's just stronger. SK-78 is better than both at resisting elongation caused by long term tension. So with -90 or -75, you want to keep your shroud pretension below about 15% of the line's BL. With -78, you can go to maybe 20%.

Some lines come prestreched and heat set now, so they can accept a higher pretension compared to their BL.

Unlike steel or jacketed PBO, any of these braided lines will be subject to construction stretch, which is the braid settling in. This is needed with every new splice, but also if you drop your mast, then walk all over the shrouds or let the (spliced) end dangle past the mast on the trailer ride home, the braid unsettles and needs to be reset again- the line will be shorter and might make rigging the boat harder next outing.

I'm pretty confident any 3/16" spectra would work, and I think the better 1/8" lines would also. I haven't heard of plain SK-90 lighting the world on fire though. From what I can tell, riggers are just using it to bump the strength of running rigging with it. Sort of like Amsteel but a bit stronger, and I don't think anybody would use Amsteel for standing rigging.

Thanks for getting me the hardware list Jon, now I have to get a West Marine catalog so I know what the part number coincides with. I have the newest Harken catalog, along with the price list, and the numbers just don't mesh. By the way, I just got done working on the house of the Southwest sales rep for Harken. He deals strictly wholesale unfortunately, but he's willing to work with us to put together an updated parts list, that maybe we can purchase through a retailer.

Rocky,
If you have the spreadsheet I sent you thru JR, the hardware tab has the Harken part number as well as the West Marine and APS part numbers. The BOM tab does not have the Harken P/Ns and is a shopping list with total quantities rolled up from each subsystem on the hardware tab. Chris has offered a discount to i550 builders in the past on the i550.org. His address and phone number has changed since 2007.

Ughhh....Can't.... open..... spreadsheet......don't know why. Have to do it the old fashioned way.

let us see if I can post this. It is an edit of a list that I put together for a builder with some parts already like the mainsheet block list.



Jib Sheeting system
1 RC72540 Racing track w/ cars kit
includes- 2x 20" 1" t-track w/ 1" hole spacing, 2 composite cars w/ pin stop, 2 Ser 40 blocks and 4 endcaps


Jib Furling N/A

Main Traveler
1 RC1190-1.5 Series 19 BB track
1 RC11910 Series 19 BB traveller Car
2 RF20141 Series 20 Stand-up blocks
2 RF5000 Mini C-Cleat
2 RF5005 Mini C-Cleat fairlead
2 RC11980 Series 19 track ends

Mainsheet System:
2 RF55101 Series 55 Orbit Single block
1 RF56101 Series 55 Orbit Single block- Auto Ratchet
1 RF7 Swivel Base and C-Cleat

Vang System:
4 RF35100 Series 30 Orbit Single Swivel block
1 RF5010 C-Cleat
1 RF5015 C-Cleat Fast-track fairlead

Cunningham System:
2 RF35101 Series 30 Orbit Single loop-top
1 RF35100 Series 30 Orbit Single Swivel block
1 RF5010 C-Cleat
1 RF5015 C-Cleat Fast-track fairlead

Outhaul System:
2 RF35101 Series 30 Orbit Single loop-top
1 RF35100 Series 30 Orbit Single Swivel block

Spinnaker System

Pole Launching System:
1 RF45101 Series 40 Orbit block- Single
1 RF5000 Mini C-Cleat
1 RF5005 Mini C-Cleat fairlead

Spinnaker Tack System
1 RF45101 Series 40 Orbit block- Single
1 RF5010 C-Cleat
1 RF5015 C-Cleat Fast-track fairlead

Spinnaker Sheet System
1 RF46151 Series 40 Ratchet Cheek
1 RF46151A Series 40 Ratchet Cheek- anticlockwise
2 RF45101 Series 40 Orbit block- Single
2 RF5010 C-Cleat

tHANKS M&S. Are these Ronstan Part #s?

Yes Ronstan part#s
RC , RS , and other R .... usually Ronstan

A Harken list from the desk of CB and an unidentified Harken guy. Circa 2008


i550 Hardware Specs/Quote - February 2008 Jib Systems:
Jib Sheeting: $284.90USD

2 5366257 Harken 24in. Dinghy Jib Track


31.99

2 1171131 Harken Jib Lead w/Strap



39.99

2 1324359 Harken 40mm Carbo Ti-lite Block


24.99

2 114652 Harken Aluminum Cam Cleat



31.99

2 3732690 Harken Extreme Angle Fairlead


13.49
Jib Furling: $265.98USD


1 149018 Harken Small Boat High Load Furling System
240.00

1 276710 Harken Carbo Micro Cam Cleat


21.79

1 276140 Harken Micro Fairlead - Black


4.19 Main Systems:
Main Traveller: $288.91USD

1 2640613 Harken Low Beam CB Track 1.5M


62.99

1 3732534 Harken Hi Load CB Car w/Sheaves


129.99

2 407379 Harken Micro Upright Lead Block


11.99

2 276710 Harken Carbo Micro Cam Cleat


21.79

2 276140 Harken Micro Fairlead - Black


4.19

1 359786 Harken Heavy Duty Track End Stops

19.99
Main Sheet: $243.96USD

2 200118 Harken 57mm Ti-lite Carbo Block


31.99

1 2640043 Harken 57mm Ratchamatic Carbo Block

74.99

1 114645 Harken Swivel Base with 150 Cam Cleat

104.99
Vang: $119.44USD

4 2042158 Harken 29mm Carbo Block w/swivel

18.49

1 114652 Harken Aluminum Cam Cleat


31.99

1 3732690 Harken Extreme Angle Fairlead


13.49
Cunningham: $84.95USD

2 2042315 Harken 29mm Fixed Carbo Block


10.49

1 114652 Harken Aluminum Cam Cleat


31.99

1 2042158 Harken 29mm Carbo Block/Swivel


18.49

1 3732690 Harken Extreme Angle Fairlead


13.49
Outhaul: $39.47USD

2 2042315 Harken 29mm Fixed Carbo Block


10.49

1 2042158 Harken 29mm Carbo Block/Swivel


18.49 Spinnaker:
Pole Launching: $42.97USD

1 2042349 Harken 29mm Carbo Ti-lite Block


16.99

1 276710 Harken Carbo Micro Cam Cleat


21.79

1 276140 Harken Micro Fairlead - Black


4.19
Spinnaker Tack: $53.57USD

1 2042349 Harken 29mm Carbo Ti-lite Block


16.99

1 114652 Harken Aluminum Cam Cleat


31.99

1 367237 Harken Fairlead - Black



4.59
Spinnaker Sheet: $211.94USD

2 5366265 Harken 40mm Carbo Ratchet Cheek Block
48.99

2 1324359 Harken 40mm Carbo Ti-Lite



24.99

2 114652 Harken Aluminum Cam Cleat


31.99

Total: $1636.09USD Less 20% i550 Discount:
$1308.87USD Sales Tax/S&H:

$1387.40USD

I no longer get this discount. Not enough volume of orders. To tell the truth i once offered such a great deal that I kicked in on the price. but I held to my Price.
T

I'm mounting the deck hardware this weekend. Does anyone use adhesive like 3M 5200 on deck hardware, or do people just use bolts, washers and nuts? How about bow stem plates, chain plates, mast step, etc.? My plan was to use the adhesive/sealant where the chain-plates exit the deck, but I wondered if it is used elsewhere. My caulking gun is loaded and ready . . .

Phil

Polysulfide, not polyurethane. I like Life Caulk:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... o?pid=2770

5200 is a massively strong adhesive, which makes it a good sealant. Until you need to move, replace, or rebed something.
The newest rage is butyl tape, but I haven't played with it myself.

There is a thread in the Building an I550 called Sealing through deck fittings. It has lots of great advise on this. Just a quick note though, if you ever think you will want to take things apart don't use 5200. 4200 would be better.

jray wrote:There is a thread in the Building an I550 called Sealing through deck fittings. It has lots of great advise on this. Just a quick note though, if you ever think you will want to take things apart don't use 5200. 4200 would be better.

...I've long been a fan of 5200,,,but jon's definitely correct-removing a fitting will probably lift the top layer of glass or plywood ,,,,wether 4200 or 5200, I definitely recommend the 'fast-cure' -good-to-go overnight.

...butyl tape sounds like a -lot- less mucky option,,but I'd be concerned about not sealing the plywood both inside and out of the drill-hole!