i550class.org

Question to all...

What is the advantage/ disadvantage of the wide cockpit vs. narrow? I'd like to try to make an informed decision... Thanks in advance to all for the expertise and insights.

Regards

Peter

I think that most of the recent builds have gone with the wide cockpit. In order to balance the boat fore and aft, the crew needs to be as far forward as possible in many wind conditions. The wider cockpit makes it easier for the forward crew to get as far out on the rail as possible while still keeping the feet in. Personally, I think that the wider cockpit looks better as well.

Phil

Hi Phil,

That tells me I should go with the shorter cabin/ longer cockpit version to go along with that. Would that make sense?

Regards

Peter

Depends on what you want to do with accommodations, below!

I ordered the long cabin as one of the pre-cut Watershed options. Then, when I got it, I decided to go with the short cabin trunk version. I was happy with that until I pre-fit my mast compression post. Now that makes getting in and out of the below decks arena a lot more challenging and I am by no means a "big guy." Still, all I really want below is a place for the females to scoot below to change a shirt or take a leak, so I wasn't looking for something palatial down there (below decks, not....uh....)

Anyway, here is a shot of my cockpit as constructed and newly painted with KiwiGrip. The rounded benches are not standard issue, but they would be an indication of how much more floor space (cockpit sole for the dogmatic) is available when the deck doesn't toe in, inboards, and when you run the benches straight from transom to bulkhead.

Thanks very much guys for the information. Tim thanks for the pic. If my finished product looks half as good I'll be amazed... Im going to go with the wide cockpit/ shorter cabin version. I want to race this boat with a pal or two, do some day sailing with the wife, and maybe the odd overnighter.. As long as there's room for a potty, a place to snooze kinda, the requisit cooler of wobbly pops, oh, ya and sails 'n stuff I'll be happy.

Regards

Peter
"Railsailor" (will be the name of the boat)

This thing (mine, anyway) lots a LOT better in pictures than in real life, but thanks!
"Railsailor" - I love it!

tf

I am a little confused. I got the plans about three years ago and have two options: short cabin and long cabin. I will go with the short cabin. Is thhe design for the wide cockpit somthing new or is it just up to the builder to work it out for themselves?

Grateful for your input.

David

Dave,
Many owners have gone to the wide cockpit, even some low two digit boats. Watershed has updated the plans set to include six variations. I would send the file, BUT M&S would arrange some Cement Booties or a Viking Funeral for me. If you are interested in upgrading to the latest drawings, contact Tim and Susan.

Upgrade plan info: http://www.i550sportboat.com/?page_id=2

I went with the long cabin, but I kept my benches narrow so they would be more comfortable for the forward crew member. The reality is that you can design your cockpit pretty much however you want it. Even with the large cabin there isn't much room, but I wanted to go with the original plans. The partial build guide I got from watershed said "build cockpit to suit", so I did.

Thanks for clarifying. I will now have to think about what I want to do.

Kind regards

David

Strictly for aesthetics, I curved the cockpit sides to match the width of the cabin. I know that Kevin, Chad, and others did the same.


Phil

..........on the narrow cockpit version,,the side-deck is ~2' wide at the forward end--pretty much impossible for anyone under 6' tall to have their feet in the hiking strap,,and butt over the side
......when I remodeled 'carbon-offset' I made the sidedecks ~8'' wide,,maybe 10-12'' wide at the shrouds.......
--now the butts -hang-!!

Phil

I love the look of your boat. I was thinking of using cedar in the cockpit as well - just because it is so nice to work with.

I see in the photo that you have the keel up. Just a few questions if I may.
1) what sort of purchase do you need on the halyard to get the keel up. Is 4:1 sufficient?
2) How high odes the keel come up when brought right up - I presume in the photo it is only about half way up.
3) have you mad a locking mechanism to hold the keel up (I have also put this question in another thread).

Your help would be appreciated

4:1 is fine, make sure the tail is coming off the bottom block so you pull UP on it, gives you effectively 5:1.

How hi it comes up depends how long you make your keel, generally determined by boat version and keelbox details. Hull to cockpit sole is around 20", unless you recess the keel head (I think Kevin did this). This is helpful for garage door clearance! Mine just fits with a bit of door trim removed, and extra-small, local use only trailer tires.

Phil Ryder has a keel hoist, an L-gantry that fits into a tube in the deck, just aft of the keel. He needs to be able to partially hoist to get in and out of his dock, as I recall. Everybody else just uses the main halyard.

Chad is correct. Where we take the boat in Maine, the water is only about 3 ft. deep at the end of the dock. The photo above was from last summer before I built the keel crane. I used the main-sheet with a 4 to 1 and that is easily enough to pull the keel up. I still use the main sheet when I launch and retrieve the boat from the trailer because I didn't want to make the keel crane that tall. I made a modification to the keel crane since Chad last saw it. I use a small winch now instead of a 4 to 1 pulley. It's really easy to use and it holds the keel up really well.

I used Cedar on the cockpit curves because as you say it is easy to work with. I was originally going to paint the cockpit and only decided to leave the curves natural because they looked nice.

Thanks to you both for your replies.

Any chance of a photo of that keel crane some day? Did you make it in alloy? Weight's for steamrollers!!!

Kind regards

A quick bit of cockpit design history...
Original long cabin version (to frame 124) created enough interior space to comply with the micro class box rule. When the short cabin version (to frame 110) was drawn up the side decks were bulged inward between 110 and 124 to maintain that needed interior volume for the micro class. We aren't in the micro class and had no plans to go there, so I actually patched my frame 110 (I purchased a kit) to support the wide pit area that has become common. It's very comfortable with a 16" wide side deck.

For ease of construction, I would either cedar strip plank my cabin top or use foam scraps like Chad did. I tortured ply for my cabin top, but I wouldn't wish that on anybody else. And I wish someone said don't do it that way to me before I started it.

Cheers, Kevin.