i550class.org

Hi.
Am wondering what everyone is using to
1. lift their keel
2. How to hold it in the up position
I am assuming that in the up position its fairly hard to get inside the cabin. what is the boats stability without the keel down as you would need to bring it up as you get close to shore at the same time bring the sails down and steer..
Does the main have a top haul at the end of the boom?
Is a winch to haul up the main and jib necessary especially single handed?
The keel bulb was poured by the previous owner but its pretty bad, I can either remould and pour or epoxy fill it, which would be easier, I suppose it does not matter how much fiberglass or epoxy is around the bulb Just as long as the shape is there.. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I am thinking of Dynena Rigging but will be dropping the mast everytime so was wondering if I would need to retention everytime I go sailing, more setup time..this is not a racing performance boat I am setting up and for $50 I can get normal wire shrouds..set and forget

thx.. Thierry

I made my keel crane out of a dead spinnaker pole, a couple of scrap blocks and a cheap winch. It cannot be used to partially lift the keel while sailing (it is much taller than the boom) so it is only used for on the trailer and launching.

I have Dyneema standing rigging and apart from the convenience of being able to resplice if you want to change the length, and ease of handling when the mast is down, it is something of a PITA. I did drop the mast during the season last year without touching the turnbuckles and it went back up without adjustment. But I respliced the ends this year (to shorten the shrouds to get more rake) and have had major adjustments after the first two sails to take up slack as the splices bedded in. There are more times than not when cheaper wire shrouds look mighty attractive. I don't have a local source for cut lengths of Dyneema so I have to import it from the States and the landed price ends up being comparable with 3/32 dyform wire and MUCH more expensive than normal wire. But it's cool ....

Point to note: with highly swept spreaders you may never need to adjust the shrouds once they are 'right'. To drop the mast, pull forward with the jib halyard, release the forestay and just left the rig tilt back in the tabernacle. Reverse to restep. Once the forestay is retensioned you will be back at your original rig settings.

Edit: Just fair the bulb you've got. Even the professionally cast ones get faired.

Good answer, Warren! Agree on all points.

-With the bulb keel (not using it currently, still relying on the straight daggerboard one I made) I used a 6:1 vang like system that I'd plug into the main halyard to lift the thing and hold it up -- no doubt, it does make entry into the cabin somewhat more difficult.

- I too have Dynema shrouds and simply tighten them using the turnbuckle to pre-determined specs. They are, for the most part, no huge bother as compared to wire (in fact, I think they are easier is some regards)

- definitely just fair the bulb with epoxy and filler. My lead came out a bit lumpy and I spared no quarter in banging it back into confirmation with a maul hammer. I used west system and micro balloon filler (in some areas rather thickly) to get it smooth and properly shaped.

- with regard to stability, I don't worry about it. The hull shape has plenty of initial stability and in my case, with a heavy Group 27 battery on the cabin sole and either one of my two keels inserted, I find it pretty stiff. I have the option of crossing some shoal water (18 inches deep at low tide) when I head in and out of the sailing club, and I love to freak people out by crossing the shoal with the keel pulled up. (HEY DON'T GO IN THERE! IT'S VERY SHALLOW!! - no worries, I'll manage... )

hi, thierry!
i'm using the mainsheet tackle, mounted on the main halyard. on the trailer i have a support for the bulb, so i can release the sheet and drop the mast, and fix the keel blade to the cabin (while driving). disadvantage is that i can only slip when the mast is stepped. and you're right, getting inside could be difficult when the keel is lifted.

(side)stability and steering is quite different when the keel is lifted, but it's not a (huge) problem. normally i'm doing this in the latest possible moment, i stop at a quay, prepare boat and trailer and paddle to the ramp.

i have no topping lift for the boom, i'm laying it down on the deck. and i have no winches on the i550, hoisting works - for me - without them, even singlehanded, but a cunningham is helpful.