Repair advice please...

[Kevin]

DANG!!! So much for a quick launch this weekend. I was checking out the boat and found a problem on the port side chine forward for frame 53. Looks like the glass let go like a zipper. Might have been my fat arse sitting inside trying to fix something else. Or I just has sanded the glass along the chine more than I realized. Inside looks sound.

I'm assuming I'll want to apply new glass to the chine and then fair it out and paint. But what are the gotcha's I need to worry about.

Thanks, Kevin.

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Updated with better photo

[Chad]

Aaaargh!
I can't tell from the blurry pic (I tried blowing the dust off my glasses, it didn't help) but can you see glass fibers ruptured, or is it just the paint film that perhaps didn't like this heatwave after being frozen all winter, and didn't adjust as quickly to the sudden spring weather? -and, way back in the building daze, did you run woven cloth over biax on the chine? (this looks like a woven cloth failure, unless you really did sand the heck out of the biax).

Soooo, assuming this is ruptured cloth, and it's the only thing wrapping around the chine, then the only solution is to grind or rout a rebate and fill with fresh biax. If it was me, I'd get some 4" 1700, mark lines 2" above and below the chine, and go nuts with some 36 grit in a 4" grinder. You'll need to remove a heavy 1/32", which may include a little wood. Check for consistent depth with a batten as you go. It'll go quickly, but it'll suck! Then you know the drill- pre-fit and wet out the biax, wet out the repair area, stick the biax in place, let it set up green, and trowel some phenolic goo over it to fill the weave and make it more-than-flush. When cured use a smallish longboard to minimize impact to adjacent painted surfaces. Fill visible low spots, sand again, prime, sand, paint. If you get away with only having to repaint within a 12" radius of the actual repair, you've been careful.

If you have to grind to bare wood, consider tapering the last inch of the grind so that you are effectively scarfing to whatever cloth is covering the hull bottom and topsides. This means you'll be sanding away a fair bit of the biax edges since they will be proud of the hull surface on these 1" "ramps".

I've heard you can over-thin Perfection for your final coat to minimize the paint edge. If rolling and tipping, do the last coat with no tape and just hand feather the edges. If spraying, mask well beyond the repair area and try not to spray all the way to the tape, feathering up to it instead. Either way, it's going to show- sorry. Marine paint kinda sucks that way. Say, are you thinking about adding a contrasting color graphic? Now's the time!!!

[Kevin]

Grinder? ouch! The family is going to love the mood I'm in after taking a grinder to PipeDream. Picture was taking with iPhone in a dark garage. I'll get a work light out and take a close look/better picture tonight.

Chine layup was overlapping layers of 6oz e-glass cloth, bottom first, then top sides wrapped over on top. For the most part straight, not on the bias. Interior taping is all 6oz on the bias. I happen to have some 17oz +45/-45 biaxial cloth, so that's to the good. I'll need to get some phenolic somethings before wetout time, all I have in the fairing department at this point is some West microlight. Already have some patching of paint to do so I'm not too worried about it showing. All I really care about what touches the water, everything is just along for the ride. But I'll try that over thinning trick.

So much for finalizing the gnav rigging this weekend.

[Kevin]

Better picture now attached to the first post. There are no glass fibers visible at all. It's more like the perfection color coat couldn't handle the pressure and cracked. It's not really following the weave pattern of the glass below, very squiggly. It looks like the primer underneath is intact, that's E2000 for you .

I like the thought of sanding off some perfection and then applying a fresh coat of primer followed by a new color coat on top. Still kills any other boat plans for this weekend. But that sounds a lot better than going to grinderville. (which requires a trip to margaritaville).

[Chad]

Do some exploratory sanding and digging to be sure, but if it's just crazed paint then slap some epoxy or Interprotect over it and get on the water! -much better use of your time, you've got all summer to sort the finish...

waiting for those gnav pics, btw

lammied up my gnav strut this morning, other parts progressing as well. Rain forecast this weekend though, darnit.

[Kevin]

Sanding tomorrow to see what I find. Fingers are officially crossed. Thanks for the support.

I also have to 'permanently affix' a state of Illinois hull number. My plan is to stamp it in some aluminum stock and then epoxy it to the transom and paint over it. And I need to put some primer on the inside of my rudder cassette now that the boat will be stored out doors.

Gnav parts need a clear coat before their photo shoot.

[Chad]

I also have to 'permanently affix' a state of Illinois hull number. My plan is to stamp it in some aluminum stock and then epoxy it to the transom and paint over it.

I'm working on my state tag, too. The fine state of MO provides one, and I figure the peel and stick and rivets isn't the securest way to mount it. So, I laminated it in some carbon and 3 oz glass, with some Rustoleum clear coat:



Just got to rough up a patch on the transom and epoxy it on....

[Kevin]

Wow, It must be nice to live in a state that actually has money. My letter reads "You shall either carve, burn stamp, emboss or otherwise permanently affix the HIN..."

[Chad]

I have some number and letter stamps/punches here, can do up a plaque on a 15# hunk of lead, or strip of aluminum if ya like...

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[Kevin]

Thanks for your kind offer to provide a durable stamped metal block for my transom. I found a hardware store with a set up numbers and we stamped the number in a piece of Aluminum. Should be affixed by the end of this weekend.

[ryderp]

You guys motivated me to go ahead and get my registration done. I'm now the proud owner of two aluminum HIN plates from the state of Ohio. Next stop is at the title bureau.