C-Tech rig -- Issues

[jray]

I did the same with the stop on the top. Doesn't take much of a bump to hold the line. It works very well, running a six to one but will put another block in for next season to up it to 12 to 1. Also interested on how Kevin is running his.

[12to6]

Here's a pic of #129 with bump on top - http://storyhouse.org/boat/Pages/10.html . Three block cascade does not show up too clearly in this picture, but this set-up provides more than enough purchase - http://storyhouse.org/boat/Pages/11.html .

[Tim Ford]

Thanks people! Great shot of the "bump," 12to6. Appreciate it,
--TF

[Tim Ford]

OK< next question!

End of boom hardware for outhaul (and potential 2nd block for reefing line). Kevin did a nice fabrication and I have some 5mm G10 that I could use to make something similar. BUT: did anyone
use anything off the shelf for the same purpose? I just want to know if I need to go to the trouble of building the hardware. If you bought something, do you have the brand/part number?


thanks!! --TF

[jray]

Tim I didn't cut the boom, left it long and used a exit scheeve same as the one I used for the jib halyard exit. Because of the extra length of the boom I painted a stripe for max length for sail dimensions.

[Tim Ford]

Thanks Jon. I think after all is said and done, I'm going to go ahead and build the thing out of G10…I need a winter project and it seems to have struck with a vengeance here, already.

Less than 3 weeks until we enter the Good Tilt though! (isn't that what you call it?)

cheers, --TF

[Tim Ford]

OK, one more question and probably not the last. I've looked everywhere and can't find the info, but I'm sure I read it somewhere:

what piece of hardware did you use for your three halyard exit gates? Did you use a simple exit plate, or a small sheave box (like a Holt Allen sheave box - the HA4 for example, see: http://www.apsltd.com/c-998-sheaveboxes ... lates.aspx )

thanks, going to APS tomorrow, I hope

TF

[jray]

I didn't use any, carefully rounded the inside top and the out side bottom of the slots to take away sharp edges. Haven't had any issues with any of the halyards after three seasons. My thought is that it is not nessary to add anything to what is there. I am interested though in what others are using or if they have had problems with the halyard exit slots.

[Tim Ford]

Hmmm....sort of liking that approach, jray. Low tech, cheap and probably as good as any other solution! THANKS!

[Chad]

Yep, I just cut slots for mine too, and eased all the edges.

[Tim Ford]

Probably the last C-Tech question:

the top T-ball backing plates for that go on the INSIDE of the inner sleeve (male sleever) of the top section....how the hell did you get them on target, centered and unmovable enough to pop-rivet them in place? DId you epoxy them in? Or use tape? or did you hire someone with 20 foot-long increbilbly thin fingers to hold it there while riveting?

[Chad]

Take some household electrical wiring, copper unstranded "romex" stuff, snip a little 6" piece off, bend the end a few times to get a sort of T shape, maybe 3/4" across. Insert through plate hole, insert both wire end and plate through mast hole, and twist and flick the plate/wire around until when you pull it tight the plate is nicely snugged up where it should go. May need to retrieve dropped plate once or twice by holding up mast and sliding/bouncing it to the bottom. Keep holding the wire, reach for your drill and chase the rivet holes (that you've already drilled) through the mast/plate sandwich, keep holding the wire and reach for your rivet gun, insert rivet and squeeze. Slide wire toward next rivet's hole, to make sure plate is tight to mast there, and insert 2nd rivet. It helps if you've remembered to coat the rivet in Tef-Gel before reaching for the rivet gun, too.

[Tim Ford]

HAH! Yes, big fan of the Tef-Gel.

Okay, what you've described sounds just about perfect, THANKS CHAD! I can see how this could work, and also see how the 2nd and 3rd attempt might be necessary!

Look, I lied about it being the last question though:

That little effin pre-feed ferrule at the base of the main sail bolt rope channel....did you all remove it? It's a SUPER pain in the ass. It's way too small, it has chewed the crap out of my bolt rope leader, both raising and lowering the main. I can't wait to take the freakin' dremel tool to that POS and be rid of it.

I might even go outside now and be done with it...JFC, WTF???

/rant over

[jray]

I had problems with the channel pre-feed. It first, was a bit to close to the boom for my liking and second not very durable. The rope would slip out and erode the track above it. I cut it of, raised it about three inches and replaced the pre-feed with what I believe is a cast aluminum one from APS, I just g-flex it on and haven't had any issues since.

[admin]

Yet another C-Tech question. The goosneck fitting...did you all glue it to the female receiver in the boom? Or did you leave it unattached so that the boom can rotate freely on it? If it hasn't been glued, are you using the outhaul tackle to keep the boom from sliding off the male gooseneck fitting. Or lashing the boom around the mast (loose enough to rotate but tight enough to keep it on the gooseneck?

thanks!

[jray]

I used G-FLEX and made it part of the boom. I'm not sure how it would work removable.

[admin]

That's all I needed to know! Thanks Jray!

[Chad]

Mine's loose, so I can slide the boom off for transport. I drilled a pin, but it's not needed- both vang and outhaul keep the boom from going far.

[admin]

Thanks Chad, I went ahead and glued in on last night. A pin would've been a good idea though!

[admin]

Not really an issue, but assuming there are some C-Tech rig folks still left on the Forum. my spreader bracket busted out of it's G-flex hold and I was thinking of using a mechanical fastener, like a 1/8th inch stainless screw to hold it in place (it has migrated down the mast). But a while ago, I was at an event where some dudes were repairing a CF prod on a Farr 40 and they were using a tap and die to set up using a SS machine screw instead of a self tapping. They said they never used self-tapping in CF.

WHat do you say? I figured self-tapping should be fine for the application....or, maybe a long thin machine screw to go thru both side of the tube, all the way out to the other side, then attach a nut and use thread-lock.

I dunno....

[Warren Nethercote]

Not a C-Tech, but for my CSI composite DN mast I relocated my halyard locks and used a drill, 10-32 tap and machine screws. I think I read somewhere that (and why - but I forgot) you shouldn't use self tappers into carbon, but whether or not it is a false memory, self-tappers belong on an assembly line, not a composite mast. It takes so little time to drill and tap, why would you do otherwise?

[admin]

Hah, yeah, well, mainly because I don't own a tap and die set! But I think you are right, Warren. Thanks man.